Flame, Carlton Hotel TLV - Polished & Unpretentious
There's a new upscale, hotel restaurant in town: Flame
Head Chef Oren Asido is only 31, but already a talented veteran of the Israeli food scene (previously at Lumina, also in the Carlton hotel). Asido has done his fair share of Miluim (reserve military duty), but at Flame, his battlefield is the kosher kitchen (baddam boom)—and the results are nothing short of top notch. Tel Aviv sunset views don't hurt either!
With a menu neatly divided into Starters, Mid Entrees, and Mains, Asido's dishes deliver thoughtful, often surprising twists on familiar concepts. Flame feels both refined and unpretentious. Flame's open flame smoker is the star of the visible kitchen, but we ventured beyond meat for a few surprises.
Flame, Carlton Hotel Menu
Gently Cured Rump kicked off our evening with elegance. Served raw, carpaccio-style, the dish was delicately dressed with olive oil, chili pepper, and tomato seeds—a touch that felt like he took a page out of the Eyal Shani cookbook. The tender meat melted on the tongue, with the tomato seeds lending both texture and subtle acidity. Simple yet sophisticated, it set the tone for the evening.
Next came the Fish Tartar, paired with a Moroccan cookie that leaned a little too thick for the delicate white fish (I forgot to ask, but if I had to guess Sea Bream). The tomato gazpacho that accompanied it was nothing short of delightful and I licked the bowl clean. The "leaves" on top (parsely) gave it a jungle vibe, but the dish was still appealing and tasty.
The Tongue Bruschetta arrived as an unexpected star. Seared pickled beef tongue, garlic aioli, and caramelized onion were piled generously onto crisp bread. It's the kind of dish I'd usually avoid ordering, but this one hit all the right notes. The tongue was soft, savory, and decadent, while the garlic and onion brought balance and depth. My taste buds did a happy dance, and I wondered why I don't order tongue more often.
The Fresh Greens were, well, a salad—and I'm usually loath to order salad. That said, this was solid. If I had one gripe, it's the heavy hand with the dressing. Also, let's face it: Tel Aviv salads are overpriced, no matter how good they are. But sometimes you just need a fresh green side.
For mains, I went for the Sirloin Steak (no photo coz I was hungry), and here's where I made a mistake. I ordered it medium, which turned out to be a little dry. Credit to the kitchen, though: they salvaged the dish with a rich red wine jus that brought it back to life. A lesson learned— don't trust the waiter when they tell you to order it medium - just go for good ol' medium-rare.
Flame strikes a rare balance in Tel Aviv: excellent food, fair prices (by local standards), and a setting where you can actually hold a conversation without shouting. The wine list is reasonable and the service attentive without being intrusive. It's a "step-up" kind of place—a destination for special dinners that won't leave you feeling overcharged or underwhelmed.
Chef Oren Asido impresses, bonus points that he kept us safe too. Flame delivers. Whether you're treating your parents, a date, or just yourself, it's a spot worth visiting—and recommending.
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